I told Chat GPT to rewrite my Seoul post , in the style of my old Hyperwest blog /voice circa 2000-2010. And look at this beauty. Way better than my actual post right?! We stayed above a subway station named after a bridge we didn’t know was famous. People kept taking photos on it. Once, a small crew set up lights in the middle of the day, like they were filming something no one had told us about. I liked that it stayed unnamed for most of our trip. I liked that the bridge just got to be a bridge. The apartment was larger than we expected—two floors, rooftop access, more space than we knew what to do with. For two weeks it held us, gave our mornings shape. I spent the first few days trying to memorize the view from the windows, like that would help me understand the city better. It didn’t. Seoul was quieter than I’d expected. Or maybe it was just us who were quiet. We’d go out for hours and come back sore, scattered, slightly too full. The streets moved fast but weren’t overwhelming. T...
Before heading to Korea, I was the most prepped I’d ever been for a trip. For the last few years, my ongoing obsessions have been League of Legends and K-pop, both of which have led me to many activities and friends. I figured that going to the source could only result in an out of body experience. In addition to watching a whole lot of YouTubes about Korean history, doing the usual run through of movies and books and podcasts, I had taken ten weeks of conversational Korean at the local adult school. I was ready! The Birth of Korean Cool: How One Nation Is Conquering the World Through Pop Culture, Euny Hong (2014) Crying in H Mart, Michelle Zauner (2021) Korea’s Place in the Sun, Bruce Cumings (1997) Was it strange that nearly everyone we spoke with said “Two weeks in Seoul? You’re not going anywhere else?” (This was repeated to us often, by taxi drivers there, friends, etc.) Apparently people don’t go to Seoul for two weeks. Frankly, I had pushed for a month there, but was talked down...