First, to her English school to pay tuition, then we rode the rush hour subway to the end of the line for her to pick up items from a craftsman — he was a no show — before going downtown to Zocolo for a look see and cafe time. Then when it got late, I rode the bus back with her to her neighborhood, so I could see where she lived. The twenty minute ride took us out to an area that was slightly more suburb-y, but definitely still city-like. So that was super fun and simulated exactly what I like to do in cities.
The subway cars tend to be hot and semi-crowded, of course, with no AC. And the lone bus ride I took was very nice. It could also be my last bus ride, as I don’t really do buses. But next time around, I need to actually use the subway more, and to learn where it goes. I liked that each stop had a cute little logo and while it was no Asian subway system, I learned that Mexico City has the most extensive subways in North America. Although it’s not twenty-four seven.
After some settling in, I met up with friend three for dinner at Izakaya Kura, reputed to be one of the better sushi spots around. I ordered as much as possible and we cleaned house and had a lovely time of getting to know you and conversation. I introduced her to boba, because well, that’s my destiny.
With one alone night day left, I holed up to work by day, only coming out for an egg sandwich and some tacos, and then when it got really late, I made the trek back to Roma to check out Departamento again, because I had such a great time two Wednesdays ago. Unfortunately, they were not letting anyone in and I just about gave up — I was actually in an Uber — when the doors opened up and I got out a block away and went right back up. The DJ was quite good, a recommendation from my friend, and I stuck around to dance for an hour or two.
On Thursday, the party began, as my friends dropped in around noon and after deciding I could tough it out, I followed them out to sightsee at the park, as we visited Chapultepec Castle and then walked home, stopping at another glorious bakery. The bakeries in Mexico City are many and I stopped by many of them. Many.
After meeting their other friend and her family who were in — they kindly had invited me to go to the wedding with them even though I didn’t even know them, so friendly! — I napped it up before one of my friends came over for a serious karaoke session. We sang Alicia, we sang Bee Gees, we sang Madonna, we sang Sinead, we sang Roxy Music, I made them sing Estoy Aqui, and then when it hit eleven, we went out to meet everyone else — who had just eaten at the Japanese place I went to last week, Kura. We eventually ended up at this spot Wallace Whisky Bar, which was upscale-ish and had super strong drinks.
One of the San Diego friends was quite the dancer and instigator of dance so once the place cleared out and it was just us left in the section, we spun around the room until they closed shop. And then I went home with one friend while the two other girls stuck behind, even though that led to short shenanigans before they came home.
Friday, day seventeenth if you’re counting, we were all awake semi-early aka by noon and I went with them to eat at La Casa de Tono in Zona Rosa, which was a chain sort of place that was also local and it had, as advertised, fantastic plain coffee. After lunch we headed down to downtown, which was way more crowded this time around, and I got to see the actual daytime crowds. My friends got their spirits cleansed by the shamans there as we stood around in the hot sun.Then we visited the former presidential house, Palacio Nacional, located in the main plaza before my food tour friend came to grab me for a quick exit. We went to meet friend two in Zona Rosa for some Korean food — soondubu and delicious, and a place I’d never have found — at Go Myang. Afterward, we walked over to Reforma 22, a big mall I’d been to the other day, for some shopping to find my friend a wedding outfit.
It was my Tijuana friend’s birthday and with the other two friends laid low by burgeoning sickness, the two of us — along with my food tour friend (should I be naming these people by now?) — went over to friend three’s place for a rousing karaoke party she was throwing. It was a dozen or so people jumping around and singing at the top of their lungs — to northern Mexican folk music, I was informed — which we could hear from two blocks away. I have no idea how the neighbors didn’t complain but it was Friday night!
The three of us jetted after a bit there, and went to Patrick Miller, a Friday night-only club that features very serious dance circles. The music was not my type but the scene was certainly unique and I am not one to turn down a chance to dance around. I did my best to follow my friend’s step, failing miserably, but it was sweaty and hot and quite fun. We stayed out till quite late even with the wedding tomorrow, and thank goodness rumors of us having to leave at ten proved untrue.
Unfortunately for my friend, she did have to leave that early, as she was doing makeup for the wedding. My friend crashed over with me again, and then he left and I got ready for the big wedding event, getting my now go-to flower suit ironed and ready. Karaoke friend (formerly “new friend three”) arrived in the late afternoon — she was invited to the wedding too by my San Diego friends, see, very friendly! — and then we all got in a car for the hour long ride into the mountainside.
When we arrived, I promptly realized I’d left my iPhone behind in the Uber. I assumed it would be easy to get it returned but as my friends assured — dis-assured? — me, that was not going to happen out here. So with the phone gone, I was left to just drink and dance and freeze. Yes, the wedding venue was semi outdoors and the mountain was freezing. I thought I knew what cold was but that would actually increase even later… I took many tequila shots in an attempt to stay warm.
Also, as the lone Asian in the room, I was asked to take lots of photos. Yes, my new Mexican family and their friends requested many a photo and much to my embarrassment, I had to do some dancing with first a niece type and then an aunt and then an uncle and so on and so forth. I am not good at partner dancing — or dancing in general if you ask PZ — and it was well, I did the best I could do. On trips to the bathroom I would be asked by someone or other if I could dance with them. Play it up for the crowd, I would never see these fine folk again right? Or should they all come to my wedding?I also had some heart to heart touching and face staring with my friend’s grandma, and she gave me a ring off her finger to remember her by. It was the sweetest!
As the night was winding down and my interior temperature went to teeth clattering, a fight broke out around 2AM. First in the corner and then eventually widening. After quite a scuffle, complete with blood on faces, it was time to get the hell out of there. (The story, as we found out later, had to do with the two sides of the family fighting over something or other money related. It was high drama!)
And then we got to real long night’s journey. We couldn’t find the Airbnb that my friend rented! It was a total mess and like ten of us spent an hour or more wandering around the streets, me carrying a box of beers — until I ditched it on someone’s driveway — trying to get to the place. Calling an Uber was out of the question until we got desperate, as the drivers were all far away and by the time it was eventually all figured out, my San Diego friend was super pissed and the Airbnb was like deep freeze, so three of us finally got a car to come up and away we went, back to Condesa and our apartments. Phew!
Seriously, that was a hell of a trek, and somewhat fun in retrospect, but actually it was just a time. Maybe in the My So Called Life way, maybe not.
After the ordeal of the night, and sleeping at near dawn, I was wiped out. But one full day left so it was time to rally! Also, I needed to get a new iPhone so new friend two — designer friend — and San Diego friend came along to the mall with me to get one. A lunch of many grilled meats later, we returned home to watch Marriage Story, aka pass out, and eventually we ended the night drinking some wine and chatting.
And so ended my twenty days in Mexico City. Oh wait, Monday I hopped out to the antique toy museum with designer friend because I had to get that crossed off the list, and then we got some fish tostadas from Marlindo to carry out and eat before the rest of us had to get to the airport.
One flew down, four flew back. CDMX, I'll be back!
